Get around
By songthaew
In lieu of a local bus service, locals get around the city on songthaew (สองแถว). These covered pick-up trucks have two long bench seats in the back (songthaew means "two rows" in Thai), and travel fixed routes picking up passengers en route who are going the same way. Some can also be hired outright.
The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common by far are redsongthaews (called rod daeng, red truck), which don't follow a specific route and roam the main streets around markets, temples, or the bus/train stations. These are the most convenient to take if you are going somewhere specific. Prices must be negotiated. but expect 20 baht anywhere within the city walls and 40-60 baht outside. However, most drivers will initially quote tourists prices of 100 baht for locations outside the city walls, locals will pay up to 40 baht for the same journey. Because of the city's somewhat irrational road design, especially inside the old walls, the driver may be forced to take a circuitous route to get to a nearby destination, but it will make no difference in the fare.
Fixed route songthaews congregate around Warorot Market. From Warorot Market, white songthaews travel to the eastern suburban city of Sankampaeng, yellow songthaews travel to Mae Rim in the north, blue songthaews travel to Sarapee and Lamphun in the south, and greensongthaews travel to Mae Jo in the northeast. They all charge a 20 baht flat rate.
By tuk-tuk or samlor
Tuk-tuks are a quick, though noisy way to get around. Fares are usually 40-50 baht for a short hop and 50-100 baht for longer distances, depending on the proficiency of your bargaining. As a guide, expect to pay 50-100 baht from the old city to the riverside and Night Bazaar, the railway station, and 100-150 baht to the bus station or airport. Tuk-tuks parked near the bus and train stations will ask you for something like 120-150 baht. Just haggle or walk away to the nearest road and stop a passing tuk-tuk or songthaew there.
According to expats, the highest fee for a tuk-tuk at any time of day or night should be 150 baht for any location in town. Well, "any location in town" needs to be better defined. If you are trying to go from the Zoo to the Arcade Bus Station, good luck with that. The point is, Tuk Tuks tend to charge more. Find a Rot Daeng (red truck) or other color if you are not in a hurry and want to pay less (and perhaps go farther).
The fee seems to be based on multiples of 20 baht which is the smallest note. It is a good idea to stock up on notes and coins as whenever you offer a note higher than the agreed fee the driver may have no change! True indeed.
Some Tuk Tuks will have signs indicating they can be hired at an hourly or daily rate. This is far more economical and the drivers are happy to hang out in their tuk tuk waiting for the riders to visit wherever they want to go.
A few samlor (three-wheeled bicycles) still cruise the streets and will happily take you to a temple for the same price as a tuk-tuk, though at a considerably quieter and slower pace. Mostly these are used by local elderly for trips to the market. Quite charming.
Note that in many cases a Taxi is the same price (or less) than a Tuk Tuk.
By taxi
There are several taxi companies in Chiangmai. Taxis do not cruse the streets - you find them at the airport, railway station, bus station and hotels. If you have luggage, you will probably take a taxi when you arrive - ask the driver for his phone number - then call 20 minutes before you need a ride..
One service advertises a fare of 150 baht to destinations around the old city - higher fares outside of the city. If you have 4 people in your party this is a good rate. Late at night transportation is hard to find, so carry several taxi numbers with you. Tuk Tuks are around at night but I don't consider them safe (no seat belts, no doors) or comfortable (noisy, windy) be safe, call a taxi.
As of May 2016, Grab Taxi (like Uber) is a mobile app that one can use to get around Chiang Mai. However, when one tries to book, you find out that the taxis really only want to do a short run to/from the moat area to the airport. Useless unless those are your destinations. You can enter the pick up and drop off destinations and it will give you either a fare estimate or fixed rate depending on the type of taxi service you request.
As of November 2016, Uber works in Chiang Mai, rides between Nimman area and the old city cost 50-60 baht, comfortable AC-ed cars and short wait (at least in the center) makes it definitely the best transportation option.
By scooter or motorbike
A motorbike (what North Americans call a scooter) is a convenient and cheap way to get around town or reach the outlying sights. There are an abundance of nearly indistinguishable rental outfits in town, and most guest houses can arrange rentals. Automatic 110cc and 125cc motorbike capable of carrying two people are the easiest to operate (for those with limited motorbike experience), but step-through Honda Waves are also very popular, and off-road bikes and larger street bikes are also an option. A valid Thai or international drivers licence is legally required to rent, though most places will not require it.
Scooters are 100 baht/day for a 110cc motorbike and 150-200 baht/day for a Honda Wave 125cc, which is faster if you plan to drive uphill to e.g. Wat Doi Suthep. They come supplied with helmets and a security chain. If you rent longer term, e.g., by the month, those rates can be as low as 2,400 to 2,700 baht per month, averaging 80-90 baht per day. Several dealers will agree to these rates.
Larger machines cost 700 baht/day for a V-twin chopper or larger sport-bike. Expect discounts when renting for a week, month, or longer.
Rentals will require a deposit (generally prudent opinion would say that while many ask for a passport you should under no circumstances leave your passport [with anyone] as collateral). It is recommended that you use your discretion to make this assessment as reputable vendors will cause no problems leaving the passport for a month each time. It is therefore better to rent the bike through a hotel, for added secure and witness if there is problem with the returning of passport later. Also, most vendor associated with the hotel will deliver and collect the bike at the hotel - saving time and effort of searching for one in the city. Remember that if you want to leave the country you will need the passport; and that you must ALWAYS carry a photocopy of the passport and visa/entry stamp pages. In this case an additional photo ID isn't a bad idea. Most shops will accept a photocopy with a cash deposit of around 3,000-5,000 baht. This is a much better alternative. While the petrol/gas tank may be full on pick-up, it is not uncommon for shops to deliver a bike with just enough fuel to go make it to a service station. In any case, return the bike with as much or more fuel than received to avoid any penalties. Also check out the relative mechanical merit of the bike being offered. Focus especially on the brakes, the degree of "pull" needed for the handlebar lever, and the travel needed for the foot brake. Check that indicators and headlights work properly, and the tires are reasonably OK (top up tire pressure air at the nearest service station)
Some rental agreements claim to insure you but generally only cover the bike for theft or damage. Don't expect much in the way of compensation if something bad such as an accident occurs. Regardless of who is at fault, assume that you will be considered the guilty party.
The police frequently fine riders (including passengers) 500 baht (some officers will allow you to pay 100 or 200 baht on the spot "to avoid paperwork and travelling to the station, etc.") for not wearing a helmet, plus you usually have to go to the police station the next day to collect your licence.
Most of these rental bike are obvious as their license plates are different from the locally own ones. Many police will not stop to check or verify documents unless it is near the end of month or near major festival as they need 'extra cash' for the family.
A note about helmets. If you care about your face at all, the half-helmets that are most popular will not provide any safety. I personally know someone whose half helmet caused him to become deaf in one ear as the bottom edge crushed the nerves in his ear from an accident that blindsided him. If he had a full-face helmet he would still have hearing in that ear, and if he was wearing no helmet he would be dead. Wear a full-face helmet! There are helmet shops everywhere in Chiang Mai, and getting a full-face helmet that fits properly is an investment that is well worth it (less than 1,000 THB), if you are going to be doing any amount of riding.
By bicycle
Traffic inside the old city walls is subdued enough to make biking a quick way to get around. Bike rentals are plentiful; rental costs 50 -250 baht/day depending on the bike quality. Few companies provide bicycle helmets - if you plan to ride a bicycle be safe and bring your own helmet. There are many potholes in Chiangmai streets so stay alert for obstacles, not to mention dogs that might chase you down small alleys. Keep to the left (not intuitive for North American/European cyclists). Also, realize you do not have the right of way, so asserting that could end in tears.
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